Coilovers any good?

Advantages of a Coilover Suspension

• Good handling. Some enthusiasts point to improved handling with coilovers as opposed to some of the stock suspension systems that come from the factory. Setting up a custom suspension can help that system do more of the work in cornering and other parts of the drive.
• Adjustability. Drivers love that these custom suspensions are adjustable. That's great for anyone who wants a "low ride" for their car. On the other hand, for off-road coilovers, a high setting will often be preferable. Being able to set your suspension any way you want to is a huge plus for these kinds of systems.
• Prestige. Telling your auto-buff friends that you installed a coilover suspension will probably get you some points. The better kinds of coilovers are well regarded in the car community as useful custom aftermarket parts, and some of the best cars around run on these kinds of specialized setups.

Cons of a Coilover Suspension

• Stiff ride. Some drivers report that coilovers lead to a stiff, uncomfortable ride. In some cases, this is because poor quality coilovers were not able to be configured correctly. Buying cheaper coilovers can really compromise ride quality and even safety, so experts recommend springing for a set with a good reputation.
• Possible failure. As mentioned, cheap and poorly made coilovers can be a real liability on the road. Some "sleeve type" designs can fail in certain kinds of driving. Read up on various kinds of coilovers before buying, to make sure they're not getting into a situation involving added risk on the road.
• Space hogging setups. There's only so much room under the frame of your car, and for some drivers, coilovers tend to eat up more than their share. Coilovers can come into contact with parts like a sway bar, tangle up wires and cables for systems like antilock brakes, or even end up in contact with tires, chewing off the sidewall. These are serious issues, and you should look carefully at your particular wheel area before trying to fit another item into your car.

Leaf Springs

Leaf spring suspension is a simpler system because the vehicle's axle suspends the spring. This makes it sturdier, with higher load bearing limits. It also comes in useful when jacking a car or truck up because the leaf springs respond better to being lifted. They are also less expensive. There are downsides to a leaf spring suspension. They are less adjustable and having fixed points around the chassis of the vehicle offers far less movement, making them slightly more bumpy.

More stories on CLICK HERE 

Common Spark Plug Conditions

Click image to enlarge

Dyno Tech

Dyno Preparation Checklist:

1. Have sufficient fuel in the tank
2. Ensure your engine is free of all oil and water leaks
3. Have sufficient engine oil, transmission oil, and coolant levels
4. Have a good set of spark plugs installed in your engine
5. Do not bring your vehicle to the dyno with a weak battery, failing alternator, or bad starter
6. Do not bring your vehicle to the dyno with one or more check engine lights
7. Ensure that you have a clean fuel filter and properly operating fuel system
8. Set your tire pressure to the recommended setting
9. Bring your vehicle to the dyno with a good set of tires
10. Avoid bringing your vehicle to the dyno on racing slicks or sticky drag radials
11. Bring your vehicle to the dyno properly aligned
12. Ensure all vacuum hoses, coolant hoses, and pipes are tightly secured
13. Bring a vehicle to the dyno with a healthy engine
14. Tell the dyno operator what your goals are for the testing

Chassis Dynamometer Differences & Testing Goals:

Much debate revolves around measuring the power and torque levels of your vehicle and engine on a chassis dynamometer (dyno). One machine may give your measurements drastically higher than the next. My first objective is to explain some important differences amongst the most widely used dynos. However, my main objective is to discuss the importance of setting dyno testing goals.

Inertia vs Eddy Current Dynos

There are a variety of different types of chassis dynos; however, the two most common machines are either based on inertia or eddy current magnetic retarders.

Inertia dynos calculate power by measuring the power required to accelerate a drive roller. The drive roller has a known mass. There is no load that is moved, in turn there is no measurement of load. The most common inertia dynos in use are manufactured by DynoJet and Mustang Dyno.

Eddy current dynamometers have an electrically conductive core, shaft, or disc. It moves a across a magnetic field to measure resistance to movement. The eddy current magnetic absorber allows for quick load change rates. The best models enable the operator to conduct true steady-state and controlled rate operation. The most common eddy current dynos in use are manufactured by DynoDynamics and DynaPack.

Roller vs Hub Style Dynos

There are also two main types of design used in chassis dynos.

Most dynos consists of rollers mounted in a frame or in a pit in the floor. The vehicle is strapped to the frame or floor and driven on the rollers. The most popular manufacturers of roller style dynos are: DynoJet, Mustang Dyno, and DynoDynamics.

Another type of chassis dyno is one that is mounted to the hubs of the vehicle after the wheels have been removed. A popular brand is DynaPack.

It is obvious that a roller type dyno will deliver lower measurements of power and torque, since the drive train loss is carried further. This loss is increased the further we move from the engine's flywheel, to the transmission, to the axles, to the wheels, and finally to the tires. A dyno that measures at the hubs does not suffer from drive train losses at the wheels and tires. Therefore, it will measure higher power and torque numbers that are closer to those measured at the flywheel.

Correction Factors and Smoothing Factors

Dynamometer manufacturers also incorporate different features with regard to atmospheric correction and smoothing. DynoJet uses a smoothing factor to average out the bumps and spikes to compensate for the fact that the raw data from the DynoJet's acceleration sensors is very jagged and noisy. The scale runs from 0, least smoothing, to 5, which eliminates nearly all spikes and dips. You can imagine that the spikes and dips can significantly distort the mesured power and torque numbers. Atmospheric corrections are handled by incorporating dyno room temperature, humidity, and barometric pressure in to the dyno's software. With these variables, the dyno operator ensures that the measurements are equivalent during widely varying seasonal conditions.

Testing Goals

All types of chassis dynos share one common characteristic: they are tools to measure output levels and to prepare appropriate tunes for the intended purpose of the vehicle. Therefore, it is of lesser importance what type of kind of chassis dyno is used, than what the dyno professional does with the machine.

A good tuner will prepare your street vehicle with a consistent combination of air/fuel, ignition timing, and cam timing. The tuner's focus will be on safety and reliability, not power numbers. On the other hand, a good tuner will prepare a track oriented vehicle for the highest power and torque results that are necessary for the type of racing intended. A much more aggressive tune is justified in race vehicles, with a greater focus on power numbers. Regardless of what the intended purpose is of the vehicle, the tune should reflect a repeatable, lasting combination of air/fuel, ignition timing, and cam timing.

In conclusion, considering the large amount of differences from one dyno to another, it may seem difficult to determine the best approach when you want to put your vehicle on a chassis dyno. However, your decision will most likely depend on the proximity of the dyno shop, their rates, their customer service, and their availability.

Here are some useful tips for successive dyno testing sessions:

1. Use the same dyno for all your testing
2. Ask the dyno operator to use the same smoothing factor (DynoJet)
3. Ask the dyno operator to use the same correction factor or method (all)
4. Establish a baseline first, which can be a stock vehicle, a stock engine, or just the start of a new project on your already modified engine
5. Compare your baseline results to the results of the next trip to the dyno and every subsequent one
6. Ask the dyno operator to attempt to conduct successive dyno pulls within the same range of engine and intake temperatures
7. Be consistent with gear selection, dyno pulls in different gears will produce different power and torque measurements
8. Always check with the dyno operator how to properly prepare your vehicle for your visit

Context courtesy of Import Hot Rod Garage

Fuel Pressure Regulator

Universal Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator

Installing aftermarket fuel pressure regulator is to make sure injector receive enough fuel. Fuel pump is to pump more fuel into injector and by installing a fuel pressure regulator does not increase horse power.

Some say more fuel + more air = more power after tuning.

The answer is NO.

Fuel pressure regulator is to maintain fuel line pressure but not to increase fuel. Bigger injector (cc) + fuel pressure regulator + fuel pump = more power and by changing only one part is no use at all.

With a proper tuning on a dyno for optimum level, owner can get at least 8 WHP increased on normal aspiration by doing proper tuning to fuel pressure regulator for better air fuel ratio.

Fuel pressure regulator doesn't increase horse power actually unless fine tuning the injector timing to maintain A/F ratio. The benefit of higher fuel pressure regulator, apart from ensuring the engine will not run lean is possibly finer fuel spray which aid mixing, evaporation, and enhance combustion. But this is provided the injector holes is small enough so it will spray very fine droplets, else its useless. AFAIK, only those with multiple holes benefit from this.

Be careful when tuning fuel regulator with stock injector as they will defect more quicker. Try to study or Google regarding fuel pressure is suitable for turbo, supercharge, or normal aspiration. Learn without guidance sure will make you astray, so basically learning using Google doesn't prove that you good enough too.

Logically figure influenced a number of reasons:

1. Power to weight ratio (weight of car engine).
2. Type of tires used.
3. Every car has a different gear ratio.
4. Weight mass of the roller may vary between each roller dyno machine.
5. Different units of measurement used, HP, BHP, WHP, PS, etc.

Tips:

Usually do a dyno before and after mods. Do a comparison with a friend with a same mods and finally do a side by side test on the road against factory stock and your question may be answered.

Beginners Guide to Tuning by HKS

Beginner's Guide to Tuning by HKS! is absolutely just for you. It lists articles on basic tuning as improvement of vehicle overall performance in response to user needs, but this is a good reference material by HKS for beginners available on the Internet for those who want to better understand the concept of basic tuning.

Click on the image above to go to their website
directly www.HKS-Power.co.jp
"Beginners Guide to Tuning by HKS"

Car Care and Do-It-Yourself Projects

I will share with you about the discovery of the website from our Facebook friends. It's not a new discovery, but we just need to work hard to find useful information to be shared to others in need. This website provides a lot of interesting information about car care and especially a Do-It-Yourself. In this section full of guidelines, advice and level of difficulty How To and DIY where those people share useful projects.

Click on the image above to go to their website
directly www.MobilOil.com Car Care section